milano in 24 hours

I arrived in Milan on Monday morning. It was intended as a layover, on my way to the Ligurian coast. I’ve been to Milan a few times before, but always as an after-thought, or as part of a business trip. My impression of Italy’s second largest city had been neutral at best. I wanted to give Milan another shot. And I’m glad I did . It intrigued me more than any other time before, and it has me wanting to go back for more.

I landed at Malpensa airport after a red-eye from Boston . From there I took the train to Milano Centrale train station , and a taxi from the station to my accommodations. There are car services from Malpensa but I’m pretty nimble and was fine with trains and taxis. I love me a good train ride, and meet such interesting people. More on that later…..

I decided to make the Brera district my base. I had read about various neighborhoods in Milan, and couldn’t visit them all so I chose Brera for its proximity to the city center and for its restaurant, shopping and cultural scenes. I highly recommend it. Brera is an area that doesn’t feel like a concrete jungle. My accommodation was fine for the night. I chose the Brera Boutique apartments in Via San Marco. The location is perfect, and the room is quiet, and self-sufficient. There is no reception desk, concierge, or room service. It is a small suite with a kitchen, living space, and bath - and comes with my favorite accessory: an espresso machine.

Cute room for a short stay at Brera Apartments in Milan.

The afternoon of my Milan stay was spent tracking down a new SIM card for my cellphone. My new-ish phone wasn’t compatible with the WI-FI service in Italy and it is critical for everything - google maps, email, even checking into my hotel. I went old school (since I couldn’t google SIM card on my phone with no internet service) and just asked people on the street and in the cafe’ for the name of the closest store. I found a TIM store about a half-mile away, and got a new SIM card. ALL was well with the world. And the cherry on the Milano sundae is the grace and kindness from the salesperson. We got chatting about the US , and he talked about his upcoming dream vacation to New York. He gave me a huge discount on my SIM card as well as a set of wireless headphones. I can’t tell you how many times I have been the recipient of the generosity of spirit of the Italian people.

I strolled through the Brera neighborhood until it was time for dinner. It wasn’t just raining the first day here. It was a torrential downpour. But, I was so curious about exploring the area that I got over my boo-boo face, bought an umbrella and soldiered on. I’m glad I did.

The gallery and shop windows (le vetrine) tell such a compelling story about a place and the mood they wish to convey.

I wanted to dine on local dishes on my first and only evening in Milan, and had heard about a restaurant called Al Matarel. They are known for their elevated (yet very authentic) Milanese menu. I walked in without a reservation. Bad choice. My charm was not sufficient to get a table….Next time I’ll call ahead. I do recommend it, however, if you find yourself in Brera . Just don’t walk in (especially during Milan Fashion Week). Note to self.

Al Materal   in Via Laura Solera Montegazza.  Milan

I was seriously jet lagged, water-logged and starving by dinner time, so I did find a restaurant close to the hotel. Service was meh. But dinner was great and it had a neighborhood feeling.

What’s better than Risotto alla Milanese, sauteed chickory with peperoncini, and a glass of chilled wine? Nothing.

What to do in a city with so many options as Milan when you have to catch a 4pm train?

I started at a gallery I had heard much about, Pinacoteca di Brera. It was intended by Napoleon Bonaparte to become the Louvre of Italy, and houses amazing works of art, including some of my favorites.

With just a few hours left before my train, I couldn’t leave the city without a return to the Duomo. The cathedral itself is majestic. Beautiful. Awe-inspriring. It’s worth a visit, whether you tour the Duomo (which I didn’t), climb to the terrace for city-wide views (which I was tempted to, but ran out of time), or just marvel at its architecture. My photos don’t do it justice. They are more like a memory of my presence.

Il Duomo, 2024

A trip to Milan would not be complete without some serious people watching. Italians in general have a beautiful sense of style that is in their DNA. People in Milan take it to a whole other level. Maybe it was the fact that it was also Milan Fashion week. Most likely it is simply the way they show up. In any case, when people watching becomes an Olympic Sport, I may win the gold.

I will come back to Milan, for sure. There are so many things to see. Neighborhoods to explore. Foods to try. I hope that you are inspired to take the journey.